With eight world titles under its belt, the Kyosho Inferno has been the most successful RC car in its scale and deserves the "fire"-themed brand name which has been in use since the release of the Kyosho Burns in The first generation of Infernos were produced from late to and shared only a few parts with its predecessor the Kyosho Turbo Burns. The Inferno was almost a complete redesign based on experiences in competition to increase performance, durability and ease of maintenance. Any similarity with the Burns series of cars was lost with the introduction of the Inferno MP5 in which introduced design characteristics which can still be found in the current MP10 more than 20 years later.

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Team Kyosho International. Items For Sale:. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed. Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard.

The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual. If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the Kyosho website, or purchased separately on eBay.

With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Buggy you may discover, can easily be fixed. When you receive your used Kyosho Buggy, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for any broken parts that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten. Next, for those Kyosho models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs.

The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up.

At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible. If the body shell of your Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI3 is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Inferno MP9 TKI3 model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.

Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily. If you intend to race your Inferno MP9 TKI3 Buggy model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods. The gearbox of your used Buggy should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication.

A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Buggy at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil ZX1 or Teflon Oil. Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting.

Gears are a weakness on all Buggy RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears. Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Nitro Engine in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Nitro Engine mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.

Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Nitro Buggy racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality "Servo Saver".

Check out my Servo Information article. If body roll on your Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI3 is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers. If your used Kyosho Buggy comes with plastic and sintered brass bushings ring type bearings , check the shafts that run in them for wear.

Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts. For more information, take a look at my article, How to get the best from your Bearings.

Aerodynamics for Radio Controlled Cars. Anti Squat for RC Beginners. Battery Connectors - Which are the best? Batteries - Types and Charging. Bearings - Professional Tips to make them work for you. Bumpsteer - What it is and how to avoid. Camber - The easy way to improve handling. Caster - To help your car go faster. Dampers - What they do and How they work. Drifting Tips - A step by step guide. Driving Tips - Drive fast, drive smooth. Droop - For more Stability and Grip. Electric Motors - Tune for Top Performance.

ESC - History and Advice. Gearing your Car to Win. Gear Mesh - Setting Tips. How to Repair a broken Plastic Part.

Radio - Choice and avoid Problems. Ride Height - Find the optimum setting. Roll Center - What it is and affects. Servos - Types and Advice. Sway Bars for Radio Controlled Models. Tires - for Buggys, Trucks and Truggys. Tires - for Carpet Racing and Drifting. Tires - for On-Road Tarmac Racing. Toe Angle - For Steering and Stability. Weight - Reduction tips and suggestions. Wheel Balancing - for improved Stability. The model is shaft driven, with alloy plate chassis, 3 x gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, anti roll bars, front and rear universal joint drive-shafts, universal joint prop-shafts and a full set of ball bearings.

The smallest changes can make a huge difference in the way your car performs on the track and our comprehensive instructions will help you to find the best Set-up to get you where you want to be. This is an ongoing project, with new and "lost in time" RC Model Brands being added as they are found and although most of those listed above have been covered in relative detail, some are still being researched and will be completed in the near future.

It's only when you get competitive that you start learning about these things and just what a big difference they can make to the handling of your car.

One of the more effective of these adjustments is Toe-in. The term, toe-in, toe-out, or toe-angle, refers to the alignment of the front or rear wheels, when viewed from above and is easily adjusted via the track rods or turnbuckles that link to the steering mechanism or directly to the steering servo horn. Front toe-in reduces steering when entering a corner, but improves steering response on corner exit under acceleration. On the straights, toe-in will also improve the cars stability while accelerating.

Front toe-out will improve steering on corner entry, but makes the car unstable under acceleration on the straights and on bumpy tracks.

The usual recommendation is to have up to 1 degree of either toe-in or toe out. Rear toe-in is generally found as the standard setting on most on-road and off-road RC models.

More rear toe-in provides the car with more power under-steer, as well as improved stability and rear end traction. This setting is recommended for low grip tracks. Less rear toe-in slightly reduces steering on corner entry, but improved steering under acceleration. To measure toe-angle, I used to use my trusty vernier callipers to measure the width at the front of the wheels and the rear of the wheels and using this information along with the diameter of the wheels simply calculate the angle.

Or, you could alternatively use this data to draw a triangle on a sheet of paper and measure the angle with your trusty school protractor. To test the effectiveness of your cars caster, place your model on a flat surface, point the front wheels straight ahead and push the chassis over to one side to simulate body roll when cornering. You will notice that as the car leans over, all four wheels also lean over in the same direction.

Tires provide the most grip when the wheels are perfectly vertical and the full width of each tire is flat on the ground. Body roll pushes the wheels past the vertical and reduces the amount of tire contact. Now, if you turn the front wheels as if cornering and again push the chassis over, you will see that in this position, the front wheels are now more vertical, giving you better ground contact and therefore improved grip. Another effect of caster can be seen by disconnecting your steering servo and pushing your car along the floor.

Because of caster and the kingpins leaning back, your car will naturally roll straight ahead. Obviously, the more body roll your car induces, the more positive caster you need to counter it.

Buggys, Trucks and Truggys, because of their high ride height and long dampers have more body roll and therefore require more positive caster than on road cars, with their low ride height and shorter dampers. If you consider a corner as having three parts: An entrance, middle and an exit. Caster influences each of them. With a high degree of positive caster, as you enter the corner and body roll is at its greatest, steering is better.

In the middle section, as body roll reduces, steering is less effective and some under-steer is induced, that will continue as you accelerate on corner exit. With a low amount of caster, steering response is improved in the middle section of low speed turns and will be more likely to over-steer on corner exit because of increased front end grip from the tires.

Too little caster can result in difficult handling on corners and poor stability on the straights.





Kyosho Inferno MP9 TKI3 (Radio Controlled Model Review)



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